Near Biblioteca Vasconcelos
The Roma neighborhood
Stay
Roma doesn’t really have big hotels but does have some cute boutique hotels with just a few suites and this is the perfect area to base yourself in. You’ll feel like a local with the open air apartments that are pet friendly. Valise has room service provided by Rosetta’s Elena Reygadas whose restaurant and bakery are a stone’s throw away.
Another pretty boutique hotel in the Roma and Condesa area.
A high-end but still boutique feeling hotel in the Polanco area which is not as hip as Roma and Condesa but feels very clean and safe.
Food
If I could go here every Sunday for the rest of my life I would. Do as the locals do and reserve a table for 3pm on Sunday and spend the afternoon eating the freshest tuna tostadas, fish pastor tacos, and cervesas while people watching. The whole fish resembles the Mexican flag with one side coated in a green parsley sauce and the other in a red chili paste. Give yourself a little wakeup with a carajillo- Liquor 42 with a shot of espresso- and of course the torta de higos (fig tart) that you’ll pick out from the tray of desserts brought over by the suit and tie clad waiter.
The perfect order: tuna tosatadas, whole fish, carrajillo, fish pastor tacos.
Photo tip: When you make your late afternoon reservation request a spot by a window or on the sidewalk.
The place for brunch in the super hip Roma district. If you’re feeling adventurous this is a good place to escamoles which look like super buttery rice crispies but are in fact ant larvae, a delicacy in Mexico. For the less insect-inclined, you can’t go wrong with their huevos rancheros.
I love a fancy meal like anyone else but hate the stuffiness of fancy restaurants where everyone looks bored out of their minds by course 15. Maximo Bistro has incredibly inventive food by Eduardo Garcia (same chef as Lalo) like a gourmet take on élotes using whole baby corn that is also visually beautiful in a hip airy sidewalk setting with no pretentiousness. It can be hard to get a reservation for dinner but much easier for lunch and better to take photos – request a table outside or near a window.
After all the tacos you have been eating, cleanse your palette with a green juice and acai bowl at this healthy causal chain, perfect for breakfast.
Food hall in the buzzy Roma neighborhood where you can sample a lot of different foods at once. Also has a cute area with picnic tables to enjoy.
Photo tip: Grab a nice shot from the interior balcony looking down
Near Parque Mexico serving super cheap but yummy guisado (stewed) style tacos.
You’ve probably heard all about the 7 year mole on Chef’s Table. Reserve far in advance.
Great Italian food in a charming old mansion. They also have a bakery nearby with all homemade baked goods.
Freshly made Churros in a few locations all with a retro field and milkshakes
A guided tour to some of the best tacos and street food.
Contramar
Whole fish at Contramar
Fig tart and a carajillo
Tuna tostada at Maximo Bistro
Churrería El Moro
Drinks
Clandestina
Maybe my favorite bar anywhere! They make their own mezcal but also have an extensive list of bottled mezcal some so smooth you won’t believe you’re drinking x proof liquor. Be like a local and have it with orange slices dipped in spicy sal de gusano (yes worm salt!). If you’re feeling puckish their bar snacks are very satisfying.
Bartender at Clandestina
Mezcal with orange slices and worm salt
Do
Parque Mexico
Zocalo
The huge historic plaza in downtown. Take a break from the hustle and bustle by grabbing a drink at the Downtown Hotel by it’s huge living green wall.
Parque Mexico
A gorgeous park in Condesa surrounded by art nouveau buildings that is a perfect place to dog-watch.
The Museo Nacional de Antropologia
Incredible archeological collection with a massive tree shaped water fountain with beams of light cutting across it in the main courtyard.
Anthropology Museum
Shiny and modern, the exterior is best viewed at sunset.
Most photogenic 60s era place to catch a flick.
Casa Azul / Frida Kahlo’s house
An iconic spot not to be missed. It’s hard not to be moved seeing the bed Frida painted in while not able to move after her bus accident. There is a mirror strapped to the canopy of the bed so she could paint self-portraits. How many of us could find the inner strength and creativity when your body has failed you at such a young age? Her brilliance is palpable as your tour her art and home. Buy your tickets in advance online.
Coyacan
Wander the cobble stone streets and ochre walls for a taste of old Mexico
UNAM Sculpture Park
The coolest library I have been to. Feels like how we pictured the future back in the 1970s. Get lost in the maze of stacks, stairs and books anchored by a massive hanging dinosaur skeleton. Also, lots of cool public art and murals surrounding the library.
Lagunilla Antique Market on Sunday
That simple iconic pink wall and pool. Reservations far in advance are a must.
A bit of trek but cool sculpture park with not that many people
Museo Soumaya
Floating gardens of Xochimilco
BYOB and BYO Mariachi band for hire on a boat. You need a whole morning or afternoon for this.
Tips
Biblioteca Vasconcelos
-Watch the altitude. Mexico City is 7300 feet above sea level plus there’s a lot of car pollution. To help adjust avoid alcohol and heavy food like red meat your first day.
-Don’t swallow the water when you’re showering or brushing your teeth to avoid sickness.
-Practice a few basic Spanish greetings. Just by making an effort you will be greeted with warmth and friendliness.
-When you pay with a credit card, say “con quince” to add on a tip of 15% in advance.
-Uber is cheap, easy and plentiful. And the drivers are way more professional than in the US often dressing up and putting bottled waters in the back. My uber to the airport was $8 (yes $8!) vs $40 in a taxi.
-I didn’t get around to taking the subway but heard it’s easy and good way to beat the intense traffic, just watch your bags as you would in any big city.
-Bring back Mezcal. It’s cheaper and there is so much more variety than what you find In the US (I’m looking at you Vida). You can bring back up to 5 liters.
