STAY

Terra Nostra 

Don’t think about staying anywhere else – this is the spot.  An old art deco hotel with character and a massive outdoor thermal pool with some of the most amazing botanical gardens including a topiary garden.  Hotel guests get after-hours access to the pool and garden so you can soak in the scenery without the crowds.  The restaurant serves the best food on the island and is famous for their cozido, a stew lowered into the thermal earth that is naturally steamed for six hours underground in the town of Furnas.  As rustic as the preparation is, you wouldn’t know it as a white gloved server carefully parcels out the stew amongst your party on porcelain plates.  If you want to see the cozidos in action head over the Calderias das Furnas.

Address: Rua Padre José Jacinto Botelho, 5, 9675-061 Furnas, S. Miguel - Açores, Portugal

https://www.bensaudehotels.com/en/terranostragardenhotel

EAT

Terra Nostra Garden Restaurant (see above)

Rotas da Ilha Verde

A rare find – vegetarian food in Portugal!

La Gelateria

Top notch gelato with interesting flavors like Campari and Sweet Potato.

Restaurante Ponta do Garajau

Local seafood restaurant where they literally give you a snorkeling book to look up the fish specials on the board which was a bit too real for me.  Just ask for the most mild fish as some of the fish off the island are rather tough and fishy.  You can try lapas here which are sea snails and taste exactly how you imagine that sounds.  Reservations recommended.

DO

Lagoa do Fogo (do not miss!)

If you head up here and it’s cloudy just wait a few minutes as the weather changes quickly and the clouds literally pass through you.  On a clear day you can see the ocean past the lakes but either way it’s spectacular.  Leave yourself a half day to hike down into the crater lake and bring a lunch with you (take your trash with you).  Once you get down to lake level there are so many seabirds swirling around you.  Keep walking the perimeter of the lake and you will be able to escape the crowds.  Type Pico da Barrosa to find the trailhead and so you don’t end up going to the other side of the lake which does not have the same dramatic views.

Caldeira Velha

As a reward for the big hike you just did to get out of the crater of Lagoa do Fogo head over the hot springs of Caldeira Velha.  I preferred Dona Beija as it was quite crowded when I was here but still pleasant for a dip.

Ponta da Ferraria (do not miss!)

The only ocean thermal bath I have ever been to!  Go at low tide for the warmest water.  After you head out back up the hill stop to take in the view of the very Wes Anderson style lighthouse called Farol da Ponta da Ferraria.

Dona Beija

Hot spring pools surrounded by papyrus stalks and massive elephant ear plants.  It’s also open until 11pm so a good spot to stargaze.

Mosteiros

A scenic town with dramatic outcroppings in the ocean.  A nice place to see the sunset or grab a drink, just don’t have too many because it’s a long trek back to Furnas.

Gorreana Tea Plantation

Get lost in the endless rows of tea plants at the only tea plantation in all of Europe.  You can also sample their teas.

Miradoudo da Boca do inferno (Hell’s Mouth Viewpoint) / Sete Cidades (7 cities)

Boca do Inferno is a very photographed scenic outlook over the lakes of Sete Cidades.  When we went it was incredibly foggy and we couldn’t see anything but we felt like we were inside a cloud and had the place all to ourselves which was special in its own way.  Good place for sunset.

Salto do Cabrito

A hidden gem of a waterfall near Lagoa do Fogo and Caldeira Velha with not many tourists.  There’s a parking lot at the end of the steep road down so keep going even if you see cars parked on the side of the road or get surly stares from locals.

Porto Formoso

Very charming little town with fishing boats and colorful buildings.

Swimming with Wild Dolphins

We did this half day morning tour with Terra Azul and our guide Rodrigo was charming and passionate.  Everyone at Terra Azul really cares about sustainability and not upsetting the wildlife.  However, when it was our turn to jump into the open sea with dolphins they left and we saw nothing.  So we didn’t have good dolphin luck but based on reviews other people have had way better luck.  Just be prepared that you may or may not see any dolphins in the water in which case a whale watching tour might be a safer bet esp if it’s cold and cloudy.

TIPS

-Bring an old dark swimsuit as the warm iron filled water will dye your suit yellow.

- Don’t rent your car from Ilha Verde.  They have the longest lines and you will easily spend an hour waiting to get your car.

- Mark these places on google maps and then download an offline map to have on your phone when you lose service.

MAP

How I Got That Shot